Automatic watch movements are a popular choice instead of traditional quartz or manual mechanical watches. But how exactly do they work? How do they wind themselves? And are they suitable for people who only wear their watch occasionally?
One of the biggest advantages of an automatic watch is that it doesn’t need a battery or frequent manual winding. In this article, we’ll explain what makes them unique and how they operate.
What is an Automatic Watch?
An automatic watch is also called a self-winding watch. Unlike a manual mechanical watch that needs you to wind the crown to power it regularly, an automatic watch winds itself while you wear it.
In a mechanical watch, the crown (usually found at the 3 o’clock or 9 o’clock position) is turned to tighten the mainspring, which then powers the gears and keeps the watch running. With an automatic watch, you don’t need to do this often because it has a built-in winding system that works with your wrist movements.
Inside the watch, there’s a small weight (called a rotor) that spins as you move. This spinning motion winds the mainspring using kinetic energy. Some automatic watches also use ball bearings or other parts that move on their own to transfer energy to the mainspring. This means that as long as you wear the watch regularly, it keeps itself running without extra effort.
A Short History of Automatic Watch Movements
The story of automatic watches begins in the 1770s when Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet created what’s believed to be the first self-winding watch movement. The idea was simple yet brilliant—the natural movement of the wearer’s wrist powered the watch, keeping it running for up to 8 hours.
Over the years, different types of automatic movements have been developed. The most common is the Swiss lever escapement, which uses a spiral mainspring. This design has been around since 1755 and is still used in many mechanical watches today.
A more modern version, introduced by Seiko in 1970, is called the free-sprung or perpetual calendar movement. It uses ball bearings instead of levers to control timekeeping. While innovative, it’s less common and can be quite expensive, sometimes costing over $12,000.
Automatic watches didn’t become available to the public until 1780—and they weren’t wristwatches. They were pocket watches designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet, who bought Perrelet’s design and made small changes. Unfortunately, these early versions were unreliable and disappeared from the market by 1800.
The next big step came during World War I, when pocket watches began to lose popularity and wristwatches became the norm. Wrist movements made it easier to transfer energy to the watch mechanism compared to pocket watches. The credit for the first automatic wristwatch movement goes to John Harwood, a watch repairer from England.
How Does an Automatic Watch Work?
An automatic watch uses a self-winding mechanical movement. Unlike traditional mechanical watches, this one winds itself automatically when you move your wrist. The motion of your wrist makes the rotor (a small, semi-circular weight inside the watch) spin, which in turn winds the mainspring. The mainspring stores energy and powers the gears that keep your watch running and telling accurate time. Once fully wound, it can run for many hours before it needs winding again.
Some automatic watches have a see-through glass back, allowing you to watch the inner parts move in action. The rotors in these watches are often made from heavy materials like tungsten, gold, or platinum, which spin more effectively. This added weight helps generate more kinetic energy, making it easier to wind the mainspring and keep your watch running smoothly.
Do Automatic Watches Need Manual Winding?
Automatic watches are designed to wind themselves using your wrist movements. Some models also have a manual winding option, but not all. If you don’t wear your watch regularly, it may stop running. In that case, a quick shake can help get the gears moving again.
Modern automatic watches often allow hand winding when needed, but whether you should wind yours depends on the specific movement inside the watch. If you’re unsure, check the manufacturer’s instructions. Generally, it’s best to let your automatic watch do what it’s designed for—self-winding. This reduces wear on its parts and helps it last longer.
How to Wind an Automatic Watch
If you don’t wear your automatic watch daily, it will eventually stop because the mainspring loses tension. To start it again, you can gently shake it or wind it using the crown.
You can’t overwind an automatic watch because it has a “slipping spring” mechanism. Once fully wound, the spring simply slips, preventing any damage. If your watch isn’t keeping time even after proper winding, there may be an internal issue—such as friction between parts or a manufacturing defect—so it’s best to get it checked by a watchmaker.
Watch Winders – A Helpful Option for Collectors
If you own multiple watches and some are left unworn for long periods, a watch winder can keep them running without constant resetting. A watch winder is a rotating display case that mimics wrist movements.
However, not all winders work for every watch. If it’s not set to your watch’s specific needs, it can put extra strain on the movement. A good winder lets you adjust how often it rotates, ensuring your watch gets just the right amount of movement.
Tips for Caring for Your Automatic Watch
Automatic watches are more delicate than quartz watches, so they need a bit more care:
1. Wear it regularly to keep it running smoothly, or wind it manually when needed.
2. Avoid extreme temperatures or sudden changes in pressure.
3. Store it properly in a breathable soft pouch or case (like vintage leather) that keeps dust out but allows airflow.
4. Clean it gently using a soft cloth with warm, soapy water, rinse, and dry with another clean cloth.
5. Avoid showers or baths while wearing it. Even if it’s waterproof, hot water can damage the gaskets over time.
6. Service it every 3–5 years to ensure it stays in top condition.
Final Thoughts: Automatic Watches— What Are They and How Do They Work
Automatic watch movements have been around for centuries, and their design has stood the test of time. They remain one of the most popular watch types today because they’re powered by a spring that stores energy from your daily movements—no batteries needed.
This makes them perfect for anyone who loves a classic, low-maintenance, and timeless accessory. Wearing an automatic watch isn’t just about telling time—it’s about carrying a piece of history on your wrist.
If you’re thinking about owning one, explore the pre-owned collection at LXY Philly and find a timepiece that blends craftsmanship, heritage, and style.
