Buying a Hermès Birkin bag is more than just getting a handbag—it’s owning a piece that’s loved for its quality, style, and rarity.
The Birkin has a classic design that never goes out of fashion, making it one of the most wanted bags in the world. But getting one isn’t as simple as walking into a store and buying it. You’ll need to understand the different sizes, materials, and colors, as well as how to deal with waiting lists or buy from the resale market.
This guide will explain everything you need to know when buying a Birkin bag.
How the Birkin Bag Came to Be
The Hermès Birkin bag is one of the most famous handbags in the world, loved by celebrities and fashion lovers everywhere. Its story began in 1984 when British actress Jane Birkin met Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London.
During their conversation, Jane mentioned she couldn’t find a handbag that was both stylish and practical for her busy life. This inspired Dumas to create a new design—resulting in the first Birkin 40, made from smooth calfbox leather. The bag featured two rolled handles, a flap top, metal “feet” at the bottom, and a lock closure. Interestingly, the very first Birkin also had a strap, but later designs dropped this feature.
The Birkin quickly became a status symbol thanks to Hermès’ attention to detail and the bag’s rarity. Each one is handmade by skilled artisans, taking at least 18 hours to complete. Every bag is marked with a special code showing the year it was made, the workshop, and the artisan’s identity. Getting one directly from Hermès isn’t easy—you usually need to have shopped with the brand before, and boutiques receive only a limited number twice a year.
Even then, the exact styles and colors sent to stores are often a surprise. Because of this, buyers either take what’s available or wait until their dream Birkin appears. Today, it’s still the most searched-for Hermès handbag in the world.
How Much Does a Birkin Bag Cost?
The price of a Birkin bag can vary a lot depending on factors like its material, size, age, and condition. While the type of hardware (like gold or palladium) is mostly about personal style, it usually doesn’t change the price much.
The Birkin comes in several standard sizes: Birkin 25, Birkin 30, Birkin 35, and Birkin 40. There are also smaller, limited-edition versions like the Faubourg Birkin 20 and the tiny Birkin 15, also called the “Baby Birkin.” Among all sizes, the 25 and 30 are the most popular.
If you buy directly from Hermès, prices generally start at around $10,000 for a leather Birkin and can go over $200,000 for rare versions made from crocodile leather with diamond details. Exotic materials cost more—ostrich versions are usually $25,000 to $35,000, while crocodile or alligator Birkins often start at over $40,000.
Popular Leather Choices for the Birkin Bag
Since its debut in 1984, the Birkin bag has been made in a wide range of leathers, exotic skins, and special editions. The very first Birkin was crafted from calfbox leather—Hermès’ oldest and most traditional leather. It has a smooth, glossy surface that gives the bag a refined look.
However, calfbox is sensitive to scratches and water spots. Over time, these marks blend in and give the leather a shiny, mirror-like finish. To keep a calfbox Birkin in good shape, avoid rain and gently buff out any marks so they blend with the surface.
One of the most popular and durable options is Togo leather, introduced in 1997 and named after the Togolese Republic in Africa. It has a soft, matte feel with a natural grain pattern and visible veins. Togo is lightweight, holds its shape well, and resists scratches—making it a favorite for everyday use.
Another common choice is Clemence leather, made from cowhide. It’s softer and heavier than Togo but less durable. Clemence bags tend to slouch over time and have a matte, textured look that gives them a relaxed feel.
Epsom leather is the opposite of Clemence. It’s firm, lightweight, and holds its shape for years. This leather is embossed, meaning the grain is printed rather than natural, making it resistant to scratches and water and easy to clean. Similarly, Fjord leather is strong and waterproof but has a soft, matte, and slightly heavier feel.
Evercolor leather, introduced in 2012, is smooth and satiny with a small, even grain. It’s soft yet holds its structure and comes in a wide range of long-lasting colors. Barenia Faubourg, launched in 2016, is a heritage calfskin with a fine printed grain and a slightly waxy texture that darkens where it’s touched.
On the resale market, you can find Birkins in almost every color imaginable, while Hermès boutiques only release certain shades each year. With so many leather options, there’s a Birkin to match almost any personal style and lifestyle need.
The Sellier Birkin Bag
The Hermès Birkin Sellier was first launched in 2010 as a limited-edition design and brought back again in 2020. The main difference between the classic Birkin (called Retourne) and the Sellier is in the stitching. In a classic Birkin, the stitching is done on the inside, giving the bag a softer, more relaxed shape. In the Sellier, the stitching is on the outside, which creates a sharper, more structured look.
Because of its firm shape, the Sellier is less likely to lose its form in humid climates, making it a good option for such conditions. However, its sharp corners can be more prone to scratches, especially in busy cities. While the retail price for a Sellier is only slightly higher than the classic version, it often sells for more in the resale market because it’s harder to find.
Exotic Leather Birkin Bags
Birkins are also made from rare exotic skins like ostrich, lizard, crocodile, and alligator. These versions are more exclusive than leather ones and are priced much higher.
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Crocodile is the most expensive exotic material and comes in two types: Niloticus and Porosus. Niloticus crocodile bags have a “••” symbol next to the Hermès logo, while Porosus crocodile bags are marked with a “^” symbol. The famous Himalayan Birkin—crafted from Niloticus crocodile—features a white and grey gradient that represents the snowy Himalaya mountains.
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Alligator is the next most expensive. It has larger, softer scales that are smooth and poreless. Alligator Birkins have a small square stamped next to the Hermès logo.
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Lizard is usually used for smaller bags like the Birkin 25. It comes in bright, vivid colors and has two types: Niloticus lizard (“-” symbol) and Varanus Salvator lizard (“=” symbol).
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Ostrich is the most affordable exotic skin and also very durable. It’s easy to recognize by its dotted texture (follicles where feathers once grew) and is available in many colors. Over time, it darkens in areas that are often touched. Ostrich Birkins do not have a special symbol.
With their rarity, unique textures, and special markings, exotic Birkins are some of the most collectible and valuable handbags in the world.
Final Thoughts: Complete Guide to Buying a Birkin Bag
Owning a Hermès Birkin is about more than just having a handbag—it’s about owning a piece of fashion history, quality craftsmanship, and timeless style. Whether you choose to buy directly from Hermès or through the secondary market, understanding the different sizes, materials, and buying options will help you make the right choice for your style and lifestyle.
At LXY Philly, we specialize in helping clients find their dream luxury handbags, including rare and hard-to-find Birkin bags. Our team can guide you through the buying process, ensure authenticity, and help you get the best value for your investment.
Contact us today to start your journey toward owning your perfect Birkin.
